Franz Josef, NZ - Sweet As

Made the switch from the north island to the south island, which means less people, heaps of sheep, and even more spectacular scenery. Stopped briefly in Nelson and then headed over to Abel Tasman National Park, a stunning area of coastline famous for the brilliant blue waters and golden beaches. I opted to sail to a drop-off point and hike back home. The Kiwi I sailed with had a truly amazing story; two years ago he and one his best mates flew to CA and bought and fixed up a 35' sailboat. Then they spent five months sailing it from Long Beach to New Zealand with numerous stops in fabulous south pacific islands. My new hero....someday, someday. Plus, he had really wonderful things to say about the people he met in California which is always nice to hear.
Hiked back along the Abel Tasman trail with a retired Air Force pilot from Washinton. He was in New Zealand visiting his son who is abroad at uni here (and whose major is American Studies...hmmmm) Actually haven't met too many Americans here. Loads of Germans though.

Headed south to the town of Greymouth, mainly because I couldn't get to where I really wanted to go in one day on the bus. Hitching here is really common and people have hilarious stories (like getting picked up by a flamboyant ex-ballet dancer and going antiquing all day) but it just seems risky for me on my own. Greymouth is an old gold-mining town, currently a fishing hub, and well...grey. However, I ended up having one of the more interesting experiences of my trip talking to a commercial fisherman who looked well over sixty but turned out to be only forty-five. A few of us from the hostel ended up back on his fishing boat drinking beer after the bars closed.
Wow.I now know why the expression "mouth like a sailor" exists. Sidenote: I would never want to be on that boat with waves pounding over the side. What an incredibly dangerous, crappy job.

Spent a night in Hokatika, an area known for the massive quantities of greenstone (jade)in the hills. Not too much else there. Took the bus down to Franz Josef village and spent an entire day climbing/walking in crampons over the Franz Josef glacier. This is the only area in the world where glaciers descend directly into rain forests. So spectacular! I've never seen or done anything like it. My tramping group lucked out with the weather. The morning was beautiful and the sun even broke through a little bit at our highest point. It started raining on the way down, which was pretty miserable, but apparently it rains almost every day on the glacier so we were lucky to get the small window of good weather

I've been impressed with some travelers' budget abilities. I feel like I'm traveling pretty cheaply, but some people have really mastered the art. For example, this Engish guy I met hitches everywhere, cleans for a couple hours a day at the hostel to get free board, and eats off the "free" shelf in the hostel kitchens (basically the food leftovers from other travelers who have moved on). I couldn't do it, but there are a lot of people who can and do.

Wellington, NZ - No Hobbit Sightings Yet

I'll get the obvious out of the way and state that New Zealand is beautiful. Spent most of the last week doing outdoorsy things (I know, who have I become?) in Rotorua and Tongariro National Park.
Rotorua is one of the most thermally active areas in New Zealand and absolutely reeks of sulfur. The boiling, hissing, steaming mudpools are unlike anything I've seen before - pictures don't really do it justice. The smell was overpowing though, even strong enough to wake me up during the night. It can't be good to live there and breathe that air every day. Rotorua is also the center of Maori related tourism; wood carvings and jade jewelry are on display everywhere. I tried learning about the Maori culture but it was all so touristy and performance based. However, all the wood carvings really blew me away. I think one of my new life goals is to carve a canoe in the tradition of all of the early pacific island canoes I keep seeing in museums. I was relieved to leave the stench behind and breathe in the fresh air of Tongariro National Park, more famously known as home to Mordor's Mt. Doom. (OK, you knew there was going to be a LOTR reference in here somewhere. While I'm on the subject, I think the tourism industry here survives because of LOTR fans. Today I saw an ad for a tour to visit LOTR film locations and watch the tour guide re-enact the scenes using plastic dolls. no joke.) I completed the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a spectacular if exhausting one day trek that encompased a mountain climb, a thermally active crater, and finally a descent into a beautiful forest. There were a few clouds to obscure the amazing views, but I lucked out as the days before and after I did the hike the weather was terrible. Glad for the travel day to Wellington to rest my tired legs.
Wellington turns out to be a beatiful harbor city that I absolutely adore. One of New Zealand's most famous authors, Katherine Mansfield, was born here and after reading her works its easy to romanticize the windy city. I will admit, for the first time in a month of traveling I was a little bummed to be living out of a backpack. I felt like the country bumpkin in my so-not-attractive adventure sandals and hiking pants, staring into shop windows at pretty girly clothes. Sigh. Oh well, life is choices. In the back of a cathedral here I stumbled upon an exhibit regarding the US Marines who were stationed near Wellington during WWII to either train or recover from injuries. I had no idea we had troops here. Traveling can be pretty humbling at times.
I've been getting around using the NZ Intercity public buses, which are clean and really convenient. All of the bus stations have showers and travel agents and lockers. These days it seems strange to be able to leave a large backpack in a public locker, which is sad because its so convenient.
I continue to meet terrific people and have interesting conversations. I was mesmorized by a Finish girl's stories about the northern lights in her homeland and the small semi-circle the sun makes near the horizon during the almost continually dark winters. A Belgian guy stated that his government actually pays him 400 Euros a month, up to one year, to travel and allow someone else the opportunity to take his job. Apparently in the Netherlands, according to a new Dutch friend, they are installing a system to track the kilometers each car travels and charge drivers a fee per kilometer. It seems like taxing gas more would be easier...?
Other tourists ask me about Los Angeles. I respond positively but I've realized its hard to describe your hometown because its normal to you. This was reinforced when a German girl became really excited when I told her that yes, in Los Angeles you really can get take-out food of any type. I guess its easy to take what you have for granted. Like guacamole...mmmmm....serious guacamole withdrawals....